4 models that strive to make fashion more inclusive
Fashion has had diversity problems for a long time. While the industry is becoming more global, with a greater focus on international markets, color models still represent a small percentage of the total that appears in campaigns, editorials and on the catwalk. The latest diversity report from The Fashion Spot revealed that 38.8% of the models chosen to parade in New York, Milan and Paris were not white. Meanwhile, diversity in its other forms -including the participation of older models, large sizes, transgender and non-binary gender, as well as those with manifest functional diversity- remains uncommon. The models of large sizes represented a 0.69% that paraded on the catwalk last season, while only 0.77% of the models were transgender or non-binary gender.
Although there have been some movements towards inclusion over the past few years (the autumn / winter 2015 catwalks, for example, were 80 percent white) there is still much to be done. Next, we asked four regulars on the catwalks how the industry can become truly inclusive.
"I started modeling two and a half years ago, and it was a learning experience for all the people involved. Most people had never worked with a model who wore hijab, who dressed more modestly and had restrictions on the clothes she could wear. At the beginning, I used to bring a suitcase full of hijabs, scarves, turbans and turtle necks to the sessions, so that the stylists had more options. I did everything in my power to help and it has always been a collaborative effort. It's funny because there are always hairdressing stylists on the set and they do not have much to do - they love me because they can have fun, enjoy the session and do not have to worry about combing my hair. "
"I have to give a lot of credit to the industry because I've seen a lot of growth in a short time. It has been amazing to see more models in campaigns and on the catwalk wearing hijabs, and I think that my agency, IMG, really prepared the way by hiring me and taking that risk. The people I work with are also very considerate. They make sure I have a private space to change and they allow me to go pray and then return to the set to continue with the photos. While I am fasting, during Ramadan, they make sure that I do not paint my nails and, instead, I use false nails (because I have to remove my nail polish before the wash because it does not allow the water to touch the nails, which would invalidate the lavatory). Regarding inclusion in broader terms, the most important thing is that we continue having this conversation and that we also invite the models to contribute to the industry in different ways. I started as a model, but now I have Halima x Modanisa, my own line of 47 pieces that includes pre-knotted turbans. It's amazing when models can do more, have a voice and talk about important things. I think that is the next step for fashion. "
"After graduating from the School of Art in Brussels, I arrived in Paris at the age of 18. At that time, I studied theater and acting, and I could not even imagine being a model, especially without my left arm. But then I met Humberto Leon and he chose me for a Kenzo show. In the presentation, I stood completely naked on a pedestal as if it were a work of art with the body painted with a marble effect. It was then that I understood that I could become an example for others, the type of example that I never had while growing up. After that, Citizen K magazine offered me my first cover. Since then, I have danced with Marie-Agnès Gillot and will soon direct my first film. "
"It can be difficult to find your place in the fashion industry. There were many agencies that did not want to represent me because they thought I was different. The mission of fashion should now be to promote self-acceptance and embrace our differences. The role of casting directors is important because they can give us access to designers and CEOs. There are also many young designers who are doing various to their shows, but I would like to see this more among the big brands. At the moment, I see diversity in editorials and campaigns, not so much on the catwalk, but some brands are doing well - I love the selection of models in Vivienne Westwood and Gucci, for example. Going ahead in time, I think fashion needs to look back to the 80s and 90s. That was a time when being a model meant breaking the rules and having personality - just think of Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss. I think we should become bold again. The industry needs to create new icons and celebrate diversity. I'm still considered an exception, and I do not want to be anymore. "
"When I started modeling, it was difficult for the Israeli fashion industry to choose androgynous models. As a result, I spent most of my first model years working for the European and Asian markets, even though it was not very easy there either. I have modeled for ten years and I have paraded for many of the great designers, but I have a special fondness for my leading role in the Israeli film Flawless. I was nominated for Best Actress in which they are the equivalent of the Academy Awards, and I was the first transgender woman to be nominated in that category. That made me feel very proud and feel closer to my country. "
"Fashion is changing the way you see the genre. In recent years, much progress has been made and that has made a huge community of people feel less isolated. We need to understand that industry has an impact on the way our society sees certain things. When it comes to castings, we need to look for as many people as possible from diverse social backgrounds and different cultures, and make sure their voices are heard. I think this benefits brands and consumers. That allows companies to reach more people and means that consumers can identify with the brands they are buying. Making castings on the streets is becoming increasingly popular, and I think that makes fashion more accessible. Perfection is boring - people want to see the real- ".
Although there have been some movements towards inclusion over the past few years (the autumn / winter 2015 catwalks, for example, were 80 percent white) there is still much to be done. Next, we asked four regulars on the catwalks how the industry can become truly inclusive.
"It has been amazing to see more models wearing hijabs with pride": Halima Aden
Born in the Kakuma refugee camp in Kenya, Halima Aden moved to the United States at the age of six. He debuted at New York Fashion Week in 2017 at the Yeezy fashion show and has paraded for everyone, from Max Mara to Alberta Ferretti. Aden is the first model that has appeared on the covers of the British edition of Vogue and Saudi Vogue wearing hijab, the first to wear a hijab and a burkini in Sports Illustrated Swimsuit and to have their own line of hijabs, Halima x Modanisa.
"I have to give a lot of credit to the industry because I've seen a lot of growth in a short time. It has been amazing to see more models in campaigns and on the catwalk wearing hijabs, and I think that my agency, IMG, really prepared the way by hiring me and taking that risk. The people I work with are also very considerate. They make sure I have a private space to change and they allow me to go pray and then return to the set to continue with the photos. While I am fasting, during Ramadan, they make sure that I do not paint my nails and, instead, I use false nails (because I have to remove my nail polish before the wash because it does not allow the water to touch the nails, which would invalidate the lavatory). Regarding inclusion in broader terms, the most important thing is that we continue having this conversation and that we also invite the models to contribute to the industry in different ways. I started as a model, but now I have Halima x Modanisa, my own line of 47 pieces that includes pre-knotted turbans. It's amazing when models can do more, have a voice and talk about important things. I think that is the next step for fashion. "
"The industry needs to create new icons": Lu c Bruyère
Model, actor, dancer and visual artist of great talent, Luc Bruyère was born without his left arm. He has redefined traditional beauty standards, appearing in performances for Kenzo, campaigns for Nike and performing in the historic Paris Opera.
"After graduating from the School of Art in Brussels, I arrived in Paris at the age of 18. At that time, I studied theater and acting, and I could not even imagine being a model, especially without my left arm. But then I met Humberto Leon and he chose me for a Kenzo show. In the presentation, I stood completely naked on a pedestal as if it were a work of art with the body painted with a marble effect. It was then that I understood that I could become an example for others, the type of example that I never had while growing up. After that, Citizen K magazine offered me my first cover. Since then, I have danced with Marie-Agnès Gillot and will soon direct my first film. "
"It can be difficult to find your place in the fashion industry. There were many agencies that did not want to represent me because they thought I was different. The mission of fashion should now be to promote self-acceptance and embrace our differences. The role of casting directors is important because they can give us access to designers and CEOs. There are also many young designers who are doing various to their shows, but I would like to see this more among the big brands. At the moment, I see diversity in editorials and campaigns, not so much on the catwalk, but some brands are doing well - I love the selection of models in Vivienne Westwood and Gucci, for example. Going ahead in time, I think fashion needs to look back to the 80s and 90s. That was a time when being a model meant breaking the rules and having personality - just think of Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss. I think we should become bold again. The industry needs to create new icons and celebrate diversity. I'm still considered an exception, and I do not want to be anymore. "
"Fashion is changing the way you see the genre": Stav Strashko
Trans model Stav Strashko has marched for Marc Jacobs and Coach, has been muse of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler and has broken boundaries between industries. In 2018, she starred in the film Flawless, role for which she became the first transgender woman in Israeli film history to be nominated for the Ophir Award for Best Actress."When I started modeling, it was difficult for the Israeli fashion industry to choose androgynous models. As a result, I spent most of my first model years working for the European and Asian markets, even though it was not very easy there either. I have modeled for ten years and I have paraded for many of the great designers, but I have a special fondness for my leading role in the Israeli film Flawless. I was nominated for Best Actress in which they are the equivalent of the Academy Awards, and I was the first transgender woman to be nominated in that category. That made me feel very proud and feel closer to my country. "
"Fashion is changing the way you see the genre. In recent years, much progress has been made and that has made a huge community of people feel less isolated. We need to understand that industry has an impact on the way our society sees certain things. When it comes to castings, we need to look for as many people as possible from diverse social backgrounds and different cultures, and make sure their voices are heard. I think this benefits brands and consumers. That allows companies to reach more people and means that consumers can identify with the brands they are buying. Making castings on the streets is becoming increasingly popular, and I think that makes fashion more accessible. Perfection is boring - people want to see the real- ".
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